Can I Clean Plastic With Rubbing Alcohol

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1. I've been told you can used rubbing alcohol equally prep cleaners for wax and grease remover?????

2. I wouldnt take the chance, but use some good wax and grease remover. if you don't get all the alcohol off , you will be pissed. alcohol wipes are the worst , I know this beginning hand. I tried them ONCE and information technology came through the pigment

3. 

   Daves69 Well-Known Member

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   ? Perchance pregnant "denatured" booze?
   I'm no painter but I have seen this used when painting machinery. Non certain acceptable for auto.

5. denatured alcohol. just wondering..... for the machine not parts.. what is in the " wax and grease remover" you purchase at the auto paint store ????????

6. Alcohol really lacks force to be an oil and wax remover, IMHO. Information technology is supposed to be good for getting ink stains out of clothes.

   Personally I use paint solvent, the master component of which is naptha. Naptha is highly flammable and some components of the fumes are known to be carcinogenic. The naptha I take used from the large box stores has been disappointing, not cleaning well and not dissipating well. The stuff I use is called "Virgin Pigment Solvent" and I get it at my automotive paint supply store.

   Naptha is also plant in Fels Naptha Soap. It's fine for cleaning hands from ground-in grease.

   Suggestions:

   1. Use in well ventilated area.
   2. Have a working fire plan. (If this matter catches fire, what do I plan to do?)
   3. No smoking until job is finished and all rags are properly tending.
   4. No open flames.
   5. When not in utilize, cap the container to reduce flame hazard and evaporation loss.
   6. Wearable nitrile gloves when using naptha.
   7. Exercise not use on plastic. At the worst naptha volition dissolve plastic, at best it will destroy the terminate.
   8. Naptha is used in dry cleaning fabrics. Test an inconspicuous spot first to determine if fabric is colorfast.

7. i have always used paint thinner...and thinner whip the unabridged area and then wait to dry

8. ya know how the price of everything adds upwards so always lookin for a cheaper merely just as good way to exercise things!

9. 

   RedFish FABO Gold Member FABO Golden Member

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   I approximate it depends on the finish. Any enamel paint would demand to be fully cured before any cleaner is used.
   If you've ever purchased the smoked plastic vent visors, bug shields, etc.. that go on with adhesive trim tape, that package contained wipes saturated with basic rubbing alcohol for wax removal. That was effective on Carnauba and other natural waxes. Nil less than Coca-Cola removes the modern micro polymers.

10. I utilize Car body wax+grease remover. Ask for information technology at a local parts store/automobile paint supplier.

    The only time I accept used alcohol wipes is when cleaning after body filler before applying polyester primer or priming over polyester primer. Before I work on any console I utilize an auto body intended wax+grease remover.

    1 wipe I have used for this is DeVilbiss DeWipe-Outs Pre-Saturated Prep Wipes, and they work to pick upward filler/primer grit and small-scale contaminants.

11. I would take my chances with aerosol glass cleaner before I would use rubbing alcohol or any really harsh chemicals that is likely to leave behind residual.

    purpose made wax+ grease remover is the best bet

12. I,one thousand a chicken.Paints too expensive to skimp on prep. A gallon of wax and grease removers only 25 or and then at napa.

13. I use RM 900 wax and grease remover (made by BASF) I find it works the best on all solvent based paints and is not harsh at all. I find the cheap wax and grease remover (pro form for example) is a to harsh of a solvent and volition swallow most plastics and take some base coats away. I use the pro form stuff nigh as restriction cleaner to clean bare metal parts that accept been dipped because it's cheap. I ruined a plastic headlight door on my sprint using the pro form stuff, so be careful. The RM 900 is the best IMO and I oasis't had it damage a single matter. It'south $50 a gallon up hither, so information technology'due south not exactly cheap only you go what you pay for.

14. I used it before epoxy primer on bare metal, used ninety/10 isopropyl from walfart; worked really well. Did this 6 months ago, still stickin'. It came down to the fact there was no wax or grease to remove. I wiped down every panel twice, using a store towel folded in quarters for one swipe, the other side for the adjacent, then folding it inside out.

15. 

    ssba Well-Known Member

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    Naptha aka lighter fluid is peachy for removing pasty or gummy agglutinative residuum or tar from paint without impairment to paint. Fairly balmy solvent. Works well to clean a car before you beginning sanding so y'all don't grind the wax into the paint.
    Mineral spirits is a fleck stronger just safe for modern paints. Can soften old style enamels if not immune to dry or evaporate.
    Both will remove wax and grease safely and is not every bit light of a solvent as the booze.
    This ways it is slower to evaperate and will leave more of a oily film. This oily film is why it is ho-hum to evaporate to begin with.
    Alcohol or acetone are both very dry solvents that are better for cleaning bare metal where at that place is no plastic or paint to soften and create a reaction to newly applied pigment or primer.
    The trick is to not utilise any new finish primer or pigment over a unevaporated solvent. This is where y'all have to exist careful. If yous have wiped down a surface that has paint, primer or filler on it the old body coatings tin be softened by the solvent and is holding onto information technology like a sponge and not assuasive it to dry as fast as it needs to. This is what causes bad reactions.
    So to proceed this simple it is safer to wipe down the surface with a very dry rag of solvent and not soak the surface and so it can evaporate very fast before the solvent can absorb and melt surface plastics. (paint)
    I no I didn't do a very practiced job of explaining this only peradventure its enough to help some.

16. 

    Louie70Dart Southern IL. Complete opposite of k-town FABO Gold Member

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    Acetone, I use either that or MEK. Yeah, I know MEK is bad for you, but I simply use it for that with gloves on. Latex, (I'm not allergic) gloves don't terminal long with any solvent, but it's not like I'chiliad soaking my hand in it for any amount of time, plus both acetone and MEK flash off with no balance.

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    ssba Well-Known Member

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    Yes MEK is the lightest solvent and will dissolve nearly any kind of paint. I didn't bring this solvent up because it should but be used on bare metal and it tin be absorbed through your peel.
    Not good for you at all. 1 of the worst infact.
    I employ it when painting plastic. It volition cook the wiped surface and the new pigment will weld itself to the softened plastic which is great for things similar steering wheel grips arm rest & nuance pads.
    Flexible soft trim items that have a tough time hanging on to paint considering they are flexible and
    go a lot of wear.
    I would consider this solvent much to strong for wiping primer before pigment unless washed very carefully. very dry towel and very fast or it can easily dissolve your primer.
    Nothing worse than being able to see your wipe downwardly footprints in the new pigment.

18. 

    Louie70Dart Southern IL. Complete contrary of thousand-town FABO Gilded Member

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    I don't use MEK for wiping automobile primers either. Usually that or acetone on the urethane paint after sanding to make sure I get all of the dust off. Also, I got the impression the OP was talking about blank metal. If non, and then it was misunderstood.

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    ssba Well-Known Member

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    Louie I like the MEK a lot also for the reason you mentioned, no residue.
    Everything I accept pointed out here I have learned from trial and error no existent formal preparation
    or anything like that. I have institute if yous know what the base solvent of the materials you are working with it tin can prevent a lot of problems. Some brands are non practiced at labeling their cans
    and doesn't brand this easy for us. I take had some real chemical clashes over the years that were only plain surprising and weird.lol.
    I pretty much follow the recipe on the cans for the modern epoxies and urethanes that are used today. Paint cost to much now days for me to take the run a risk of mixing in something erstwhile I accept in the cabinet and something going s.

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